Cow Manners 101…Halter Breaking.

I’d like to think I have a lot of common sense when it comes to animal care.  I study up and don’t mess around.  Despite this being a cow, I still had high expectations.  When it came time to decide which cow I would keep, my deciding factor was the cow that halter broke first (no, not just to wear a halter or stand tied, but to be able to walk like a pretty girl on the other end of a rope).  It was a bit surprising to learn that most dairy cows are not halter broke, of which I still don’t understand why.   To me, it simply is for convenience and manners.  Miss Mabel’s job was now trying out for the star of the show and I needed her to get the part…before the calf came.  Mind you this 2 year old heifer (female cow that has never had a baby before) had never been handled. She was due ‘soon’ but we didn’t know when. The deadline to teach this girl manners was approaching fast.  I gathered resources and utilized every single one.   This is what worked for me (and three barely handled heifers) in less than 3 weeks:

  • For control, I chose a nylon calf halter with a chain.
    • If you don’t have a squeeze chute or head catch, you can rope the ol’ girl and be prepared to work fast. My husband roped her, tied her to a pole and he somehow threw it on. The ‘somehow’ is why I recommend a restraining device. If possible, have the halter put on by the person selling her.
  • A small pen is the perfect area to work in. Mine was a horse stall with a run out. The more wild the cow, the smaller the space I used.
  • I left the lead rope attached to her halter.  Each time she stepped on it, it taught her to submit to the pressure since she was stopping herself from moving.  (Better her learning that skill on her own than with me on the other end.)
  • I tied them up daily.  Tying them can be a challenge the first few days.  I recommend tying another lead first, then using the lead attached to her to pull her closer to the pole where your other lead is ready.  This will make for a quick grab and snap since you won’t feel like getting trampled while trying to tie a knot to secure her.
    • The point is to leave them tied for about 10-15 minutes. I would brush them calmly whether they liked it or not (other cow people thought that was silly, but honestly the girls love it and still do!). Once I brushed them head to toe, I hand fed grain (or whatever would strike their fancy). I did this everyday until I was able to walk up to them slowly, step on the lead rope and hold onto it without them trying to run away.  (The hard part is over once you get to the point of standing still with a cow in a halter, on a lead rope.)
  • Test your training.  The first big reward I offered was a test run in the pasture.  If you can still catch your trainee in the additional space, then great.  If not, you may need to reduce your space again and try another day.
  • Next came baby steps on a lead rope.  My first five walks consisted of me walking backward holding a handful of grain with the cow trying to lick it.  Once we had a few good steps down pat I moved to turning my back to her and having her follow.  This came with a lot of tugging but they eventually got the hang of it.
  • Consistency is key. I did this everyday with each of the three cows I had bought. Every single one of them reacted differently but inevitably ended up in the same spot at about 2 weeks in. Halter broke and walking ‘well enough’.
  • Perfecting the skills.  If you want to perfect the walk (or are too timid to try to walk), bust out a tractor. Tied to the back of the tractor, Mabel walked from one pasture to the next, down the driveway, in front of the dogs and across the chickens, to her pen. A few times with the tractor pull and you will have a marathon walker.  Remember to go slow and reward with food. If Mabel stops, I stop. I turn around and offer reassuring pats and keep tugging toward the goal.
  • Be more stubborn.  I say this with caution. I had to let Mabel go once in the pasture.  A few head flicks and a slight jog was enough to convince me my life was more important.  However, I made sure I still got my way. I chased her back to the barn…which was the destination I picked (not her).
  • Appreciate the natural behavior. A scared cow is a normal cow and can be used to your advantage.  A cow that thinks you are one of their own can be dangerous. The first cow I bought was so friendly that she scratched herself by shoving her head straight up your rump until you caught air. She loved attention and would run towards our voices…and then once ran me straight over a fence. These are big animals, you don’t need a cow that thinks it’s a dog. Appreciate the fear in them and reassure them you won’t eat them.

(Mabel in training with a rope halter)IMG_0333

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